Clean taxis with drivers who wear white gloves.
No blaring music from cars.
Bicycles everywhere. Click here. Look for the Osaka post.
Lots of people wearing glasses, but no advertisements for Lasik surgery
Tuesday, September 11, 2007
Monday, September 10, 2007
Pictures
When we get back home I will try to find some good pictures to post on the blog to complete the travelblog. I:ll edit them and not let it get too long and boring (I hope). Stay tuned.
More shopping
This post is a bit out of order, since my last one was kind of about our closing dinner. But I wanted to get that one written to make sure I had enough time. I do, so I:ll just write a bit about shopping in Japan. I generally hate shopping. My goal is to have a list, get what I want, and get done with it as quickly as possible. No real surprise, though, that shopping in a different country is an entirely different experience. In a less developed country, one of the most interesting places to go is the market. In an industrialized country like Japan, it:s the stores. Some thoughts.
Presentation. The Japanese really know how to present their goods for sale. Displays are so attractive, never did I see something just thrown out there for sale. This was everywhere, from the fancy department stores to the local shopping area. Food items in particular. We ate a large lunch yesterday, then went to a local grocery market on an excursion and I found my mouth watering even though I was not hungry.
Service. Everyone talks about it and it is true. Retailers give outstanding service. Always pleasant, always happy to answer your questions, never making you feel like you are intruding or pressuring you to buy. I was looking in a sporting goods store yesterday for a Hanshin Tigers hat. I asked a clerk where I could look, he signals me to wait right where I am for a moment and takes off running through the store. Two minutes later he returns and walks me right to the spot.
Stuff. Lots and lots of stuff here. This is definitely a consumer culture. We were walking in a shopping area on a Sunday night and it was packed with shoppers. What a trip. A lot of the stuff is really cool. Fits the Japanese lifestyle of course. For example, Ichiro and Fumiko have a nice refrigerator. It:s taller and more narrow than a typical US refrigerator. Fits into a smaller footprint for a kitchen with less area. There is an entire separate section, probably 30% of the entire appliance dedicated to a separately temperature controlled vegetable crisper. Also, the doors to the main compartment are two double doors that swing out rather than the single, one hinge door we have on our fridge. Makes it easier/possible to open the doors in a narrower kitchen.
I asked Maki if she had the same type of experience going to the supermarket when she first came to the US as we were having going to the supermarket in Japan. Of course she did. A couple of her comments were 1) the size of the steaks. In Japan, though beef is clearly abundant, most of the packages feature thinly sliced pieces, or small, perhaps 4-5 oz max steaks; 2) the size of the shopping carts. This was something that immediately caught my eye. The shopping carts are basically the size of hand carts in the US which you put on a nice wheeled carrier. The carriers will hold two of them, one on the top, one on the bottom. I think it:s a combination of many Japanese doing their shopping multiple times each week as opposed to in the US where many people shop once a week, plus the size of US portions. Maki could not get over the size of, for example, a bag of potato chips in the US
Presentation. The Japanese really know how to present their goods for sale. Displays are so attractive, never did I see something just thrown out there for sale. This was everywhere, from the fancy department stores to the local shopping area. Food items in particular. We ate a large lunch yesterday, then went to a local grocery market on an excursion and I found my mouth watering even though I was not hungry.
Service. Everyone talks about it and it is true. Retailers give outstanding service. Always pleasant, always happy to answer your questions, never making you feel like you are intruding or pressuring you to buy. I was looking in a sporting goods store yesterday for a Hanshin Tigers hat. I asked a clerk where I could look, he signals me to wait right where I am for a moment and takes off running through the store. Two minutes later he returns and walks me right to the spot.
Stuff. Lots and lots of stuff here. This is definitely a consumer culture. We were walking in a shopping area on a Sunday night and it was packed with shoppers. What a trip. A lot of the stuff is really cool. Fits the Japanese lifestyle of course. For example, Ichiro and Fumiko have a nice refrigerator. It:s taller and more narrow than a typical US refrigerator. Fits into a smaller footprint for a kitchen with less area. There is an entire separate section, probably 30% of the entire appliance dedicated to a separately temperature controlled vegetable crisper. Also, the doors to the main compartment are two double doors that swing out rather than the single, one hinge door we have on our fridge. Makes it easier/possible to open the doors in a narrower kitchen.
I asked Maki if she had the same type of experience going to the supermarket when she first came to the US as we were having going to the supermarket in Japan. Of course she did. A couple of her comments were 1) the size of the steaks. In Japan, though beef is clearly abundant, most of the packages feature thinly sliced pieces, or small, perhaps 4-5 oz max steaks; 2) the size of the shopping carts. This was something that immediately caught my eye. The shopping carts are basically the size of hand carts in the US which you put on a nice wheeled carrier. The carriers will hold two of them, one on the top, one on the bottom. I think it:s a combination of many Japanese doing their shopping multiple times each week as opposed to in the US where many people shop once a week, plus the size of US portions. Maki could not get over the size of, for example, a bag of potato chips in the US
Dinner with the family
Last night we had our final dinner in Japan. Maki:s mom made a wonderful meal which we all ate in traditional style in the tatami family room. Although we have been chit-chatting our entire visit, this was the best of all our conversations and I feel we really got to know each other better. We asked and answered questions about our cultures and families, and talked - through Maki as our outstanding translator - for several hours. Maki even learned some things about her family that she didn:t know. It was a wonderful closing to an incredible trip. Thank you Ichiro and Fumiko, not just for last night:s dinner, but for making our visit to your country so special and welcoming.
Sunday, September 9, 2007
Trailing stories; today:s activities
A couple of stories I forgot. In Nara there are thousands of cute little deer that walk around the city, especially in the parks, pretty much domesticated. They come right up to you looking for a handout (150 yen for a small pack of crackers). You can pet them and everything. It:s pretty cool. Story is that the founder of the main temple there, a diety, rode into town on a deer so they are protected animals. One of them sauntered up to Maki and grabbed her map! And started eating it! That:s a serious problem for a tour leader. We got it back, though. Well, about 2/3 of it. Got the deer to come up to me by pretending I had a deer cracker and snatched it from its mouth. Fortunately it only ate the part of the city we had been in. Ha ha.
Right now Leonie is baking brownies with Fumiko, Maki:s mom. Maki is the translator. Fumiko already converted the measurements and temperatures. This is a fun activity. I:m going to go watch. Either that or watch Nathan play shogi with Ichiro.
Later today we go to the local shopping area to get fun Japanese groceries and also to buy a shaved ice maker. Yum.
Right now Leonie is baking brownies with Fumiko, Maki:s mom. Maki is the translator. Fumiko already converted the measurements and temperatures. This is a fun activity. I:m going to go watch. Either that or watch Nathan play shogi with Ichiro.
Later today we go to the local shopping area to get fun Japanese groceries and also to buy a shaved ice maker. Yum.
Saturday, September 8, 2007
catching up after silence
As amazingly advanced as Japan is, there is surprisingly little to no public internet access. No internet cafes or stores anywhere. Thats why i have not written in the blog for several days. Which may actually be a good thing since now there is too much and im not going to write a bunch of travelog type stuff that everyone would find boring. Maki thinks the lack of internet is because so many japanese use their cell phones to go online. Makes sense to me. Tons and tons of cell phones around, most significantly larger than US phones, I think because of the larger screen which would make sense for web use. Peeking over someones shoulder and watching them text is a trip and a half. They are so fast and use three different alphabets and all these drop down screens.
By the way, I think next trip I take like this where a blog would be fun I:ll bring my computer so i can put up pictures like Gail did. Tells a much more interesting story.
Some thoughts. We:ve been to more than a dozen temples and shrines. I thought id get bored, but i have not at alll. each is different, particularly the gardens. And the gardens are so cool. Beautifully arranged, magnificent pruning, meticulous maintenance. Paradise for someone like me who likes to weed, ill tell you. I saw a guy picking tiny clovers out of a moss ground cover. They are so peaceful and beautifly. A delight to stroll.
I don:t understand most of the history, though. Don:t understand the relationship and changing relationship over the years between buddism, shintoism and political power. Id like to know a bit more about the Meiji Restoration and its relationship to capitalism in Japan. It is kind of interesting that Japan is the only First World country in Asia. Must have something to do with the sucess of capitalism, don:t you think?
Do you know how many tatamis make a tsubo? How many tsubo is your house? Your bedroom?
Maki has done an amazing job planning this trip, down to bus schedules and where we will eat lunch. In Kyoto a few days ago we had lunch in a tofu restaurant. We:re in one of the busy tourist districts, crowded street, hot, and we go inside and all of a sudden it is quite and calm. We:re taken downstairs to a lovely room surrounded by a lush garden are are served a multi course tofu meal. Quiet, calm. Turns out this place is the oldest tofu restaurant in Japan, 370 years old!! Totally cool.
Both of the Ryocans we:ve stayed at have been really nice. The first was very traditional, though, of course, had power, AC, plumbing, etc. But basically one room with a lovely garden outside and tatami floors. That was in Kyoto and we stayed there three nights (I think, kind of lost track of time). In Nara we:re staying at what looks to me like the Four Seasons of Ryocans. Combination of western room and huge tatami area. Incredible view out of the windows right at a huge temple. All five of us have been eating together in the room Leonie, Rachael, and I share for both breakfast and lunch. I:m glad the pictures Ive been taking of all the food are organized by day because even I will not believe the amount and variety of food we are served at each meal. Spectacular presentation and delicious. Even the giant snail was pretty good to eat (though I won:t be rushing out for more).
In Kyoto, Leonie and Rachael went to the Kyoto Museum of Modern Art. Leonie said it was the most exciting museum shes been to in years.
We also stopped along the way of our walking through the heat and humidity at a small mom and pop popsicle stand, a place like those Maki enjoyed as a school girl here. Homemade stuff. Tasty and refreshing.
In two of the religious places we visited, one buddist temple and one shinto shrine, we happened to be there when a religious chanting ceremony occured. Full dress garb, etc. Very exciting.
One night when we were walking in Kyoto we saw three Geishas being ushered into taxi cabs. That caused quite a stir. Full getup, escorted by an old lady.
One of the temples we saw in Nara is the largest wooden structure in the world. Man, it was huge! At another, the Golden Temple, they were preparing for a concert that evening and a man was playing beautiful classical western music as he was being transported around the lake in a small boat.
We;re eating tons of interesting food. Yesterday had some very different sushi, a Nara specialty, pickled fish on rice wrapped in persimmon leaves. All sorts of pickles and veggies. Lots of fish, of course, prepared every which way. Deep fried pork cutlets one night at Nathan:s favorite restaurant. Lots of beer; my favorite is Santory Premium; never seen it in the states before, but now I:ll be looking. No decaf coffee anywhere.
Rachael went into a bathroom in a department store. Most of the western style toilets we:ve seen in stores and restaurants etc have bidet toilet seats. This one, though, was unusual in that it had a button with a musical note on it with the words "Flushing Sound" on it. Bold and adventurous, she pushed it and the toilet - surprise! - started making a flushing sound that would not stop. Not flushing, just the sound. She hitailed it out of there and Maki told us that bathroom noises (from people) are extremely impolite, especially from ladies. So they used to cover up the noises by constantly flushing the toilet. This wasted a lot of water and so they invented this button. Amazing. What will they think of next?
Buses and trains are way cool BusMan heaven.
Last night there was a party going on across the street from the ryocan. Live, loud samba music in Japanese. That was fun.
Enough for now. Gotta go eat another breakfast feast.
By the way, I think next trip I take like this where a blog would be fun I:ll bring my computer so i can put up pictures like Gail did. Tells a much more interesting story.
Some thoughts. We:ve been to more than a dozen temples and shrines. I thought id get bored, but i have not at alll. each is different, particularly the gardens. And the gardens are so cool. Beautifully arranged, magnificent pruning, meticulous maintenance. Paradise for someone like me who likes to weed, ill tell you. I saw a guy picking tiny clovers out of a moss ground cover. They are so peaceful and beautifly. A delight to stroll.
I don:t understand most of the history, though. Don:t understand the relationship and changing relationship over the years between buddism, shintoism and political power. Id like to know a bit more about the Meiji Restoration and its relationship to capitalism in Japan. It is kind of interesting that Japan is the only First World country in Asia. Must have something to do with the sucess of capitalism, don:t you think?
Do you know how many tatamis make a tsubo? How many tsubo is your house? Your bedroom?
Maki has done an amazing job planning this trip, down to bus schedules and where we will eat lunch. In Kyoto a few days ago we had lunch in a tofu restaurant. We:re in one of the busy tourist districts, crowded street, hot, and we go inside and all of a sudden it is quite and calm. We:re taken downstairs to a lovely room surrounded by a lush garden are are served a multi course tofu meal. Quiet, calm. Turns out this place is the oldest tofu restaurant in Japan, 370 years old!! Totally cool.
Both of the Ryocans we:ve stayed at have been really nice. The first was very traditional, though, of course, had power, AC, plumbing, etc. But basically one room with a lovely garden outside and tatami floors. That was in Kyoto and we stayed there three nights (I think, kind of lost track of time). In Nara we:re staying at what looks to me like the Four Seasons of Ryocans. Combination of western room and huge tatami area. Incredible view out of the windows right at a huge temple. All five of us have been eating together in the room Leonie, Rachael, and I share for both breakfast and lunch. I:m glad the pictures Ive been taking of all the food are organized by day because even I will not believe the amount and variety of food we are served at each meal. Spectacular presentation and delicious. Even the giant snail was pretty good to eat (though I won:t be rushing out for more).
In Kyoto, Leonie and Rachael went to the Kyoto Museum of Modern Art. Leonie said it was the most exciting museum shes been to in years.
We also stopped along the way of our walking through the heat and humidity at a small mom and pop popsicle stand, a place like those Maki enjoyed as a school girl here. Homemade stuff. Tasty and refreshing.
In two of the religious places we visited, one buddist temple and one shinto shrine, we happened to be there when a religious chanting ceremony occured. Full dress garb, etc. Very exciting.
One night when we were walking in Kyoto we saw three Geishas being ushered into taxi cabs. That caused quite a stir. Full getup, escorted by an old lady.
One of the temples we saw in Nara is the largest wooden structure in the world. Man, it was huge! At another, the Golden Temple, they were preparing for a concert that evening and a man was playing beautiful classical western music as he was being transported around the lake in a small boat.
We;re eating tons of interesting food. Yesterday had some very different sushi, a Nara specialty, pickled fish on rice wrapped in persimmon leaves. All sorts of pickles and veggies. Lots of fish, of course, prepared every which way. Deep fried pork cutlets one night at Nathan:s favorite restaurant. Lots of beer; my favorite is Santory Premium; never seen it in the states before, but now I:ll be looking. No decaf coffee anywhere.
Rachael went into a bathroom in a department store. Most of the western style toilets we:ve seen in stores and restaurants etc have bidet toilet seats. This one, though, was unusual in that it had a button with a musical note on it with the words "Flushing Sound" on it. Bold and adventurous, she pushed it and the toilet - surprise! - started making a flushing sound that would not stop. Not flushing, just the sound. She hitailed it out of there and Maki told us that bathroom noises (from people) are extremely impolite, especially from ladies. So they used to cover up the noises by constantly flushing the toilet. This wasted a lot of water and so they invented this button. Amazing. What will they think of next?
Buses and trains are way cool BusMan heaven.
Last night there was a party going on across the street from the ryocan. Live, loud samba music in Japanese. That was fun.
Enough for now. Gotta go eat another breakfast feast.
Tuesday, September 4, 2007
Osaka pancakes; ferris wheel; Hanshin Tigers
One of todays highlights from today were special pancakes for lunch, an Osaka local dish. They are cabbage pancakes and the traditional basic one has thin strips of pork on the top. They bring them cooked to your table, but then put them on a built in grill on the table so they keep warm. Incredible. Wonder if you can find such a thing in LA. If not, what a business opportunity.
Later in the day we went on a monster ferris wheel that is built on the top of a 13 story building. So before you even start you are pretty high up. Not a terribly scary wheel, but quite a view from the top. Osaka is a huge metropolis, very dense. I wonder how it compares to LA in surface area. They certainly have better mass transit, Ill tell you that!
You would not believe the baseball game we saw tonight. The Hanshin Tigers, the Osaka team, beat the Yakamura Swallows 6-2. From about 30 minutes before the game until 30 minutes after the game ended the crowd was cheering and chanting almost non-stop! It was unreal. Actually, they don:t chant when the visiting team is at bat. But the entire time the home team is at bat they are cheering, saying the players name as part of an organized chant/ Pounding plastic bats together. Just totally into the game. After the second out of the top of the 7th everyone blows up these balloons and when the third out happens they let them go into the air and start singing the Hanshin Tigers Team Song......which they also sing 5 times at the end of the game after another balloon let go. After which they have a three or four verse chant they sing for every player in the starting line up. People come dressed in team gear, almost as much as a Michigan football game. Yellow and black, of course. They have official cheer leaders, and not the type in short skirts but men in white gloves who stand the whole game and literally lead the cheers. Drums and trumpets in the right field bleachers. You just would not believe it. There is more cheering in the first inning than in an entire game at any major league park Ive ever seen. These people are rabid fans. Nathans brother in law was sitting next to me and didn:t stop the whole game, except when he would be talking to me and telling me about a player (he speaks a little English) or he was talking to one of his two kids. The whole family came including Makis parents. We had bento boxes for food and Asahi beer. If you bring a can of beer to the stadium, instead of confiscating it they pour it into a cup for you to take in to the ballpark. Just an out of control experience.
The level of play, however, was probably about AA. Pitching was poor and defense so so. Yakamura made three very costly and bush league errors in the first and let 3 runs score. No, it was two errors and a wild pitch. There were a couple of nice infield plays, though, and the Tigers turned two double plays. The Tigers closer came in after the pitcher that started the 9th gave up a hit on his first pitch and the crowd went nuts, like Gagne. Very much fun.
Later in the day we went on a monster ferris wheel that is built on the top of a 13 story building. So before you even start you are pretty high up. Not a terribly scary wheel, but quite a view from the top. Osaka is a huge metropolis, very dense. I wonder how it compares to LA in surface area. They certainly have better mass transit, Ill tell you that!
You would not believe the baseball game we saw tonight. The Hanshin Tigers, the Osaka team, beat the Yakamura Swallows 6-2. From about 30 minutes before the game until 30 minutes after the game ended the crowd was cheering and chanting almost non-stop! It was unreal. Actually, they don:t chant when the visiting team is at bat. But the entire time the home team is at bat they are cheering, saying the players name as part of an organized chant/ Pounding plastic bats together. Just totally into the game. After the second out of the top of the 7th everyone blows up these balloons and when the third out happens they let them go into the air and start singing the Hanshin Tigers Team Song......which they also sing 5 times at the end of the game after another balloon let go. After which they have a three or four verse chant they sing for every player in the starting line up. People come dressed in team gear, almost as much as a Michigan football game. Yellow and black, of course. They have official cheer leaders, and not the type in short skirts but men in white gloves who stand the whole game and literally lead the cheers. Drums and trumpets in the right field bleachers. You just would not believe it. There is more cheering in the first inning than in an entire game at any major league park Ive ever seen. These people are rabid fans. Nathans brother in law was sitting next to me and didn:t stop the whole game, except when he would be talking to me and telling me about a player (he speaks a little English) or he was talking to one of his two kids. The whole family came including Makis parents. We had bento boxes for food and Asahi beer. If you bring a can of beer to the stadium, instead of confiscating it they pour it into a cup for you to take in to the ballpark. Just an out of control experience.
The level of play, however, was probably about AA. Pitching was poor and defense so so. Yakamura made three very costly and bush league errors in the first and let 3 runs score. No, it was two errors and a wild pitch. There were a couple of nice infield plays, though, and the Tigers turned two double plays. The Tigers closer came in after the pitcher that started the 9th gave up a hit on his first pitch and the crowd went nuts, like Gagne. Very much fun.
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