catching up after silence

As amazingly advanced as Japan is, there is surprisingly little to no public internet access. No internet cafes or stores anywhere. Thats why i have not written in the blog for several days. Which may actually be a good thing since now there is too much and im not going to write a bunch of travelog type stuff that everyone would find boring. Maki thinks the lack of internet is because so many japanese use their cell phones to go online. Makes sense to me. Tons and tons of cell phones around, most significantly larger than US phones, I think because of the larger screen which would make sense for web use. Peeking over someones shoulder and watching them text is a trip and a half. They are so fast and use three different alphabets and all these drop down screens.

By the way, I think next trip I take like this where a blog would be fun I:ll bring my computer so i can put up pictures like Gail did. Tells a much more interesting story.

Some thoughts. We:ve been to more than a dozen temples and shrines. I thought id get bored, but i have not at alll. each is different, particularly the gardens. And the gardens are so cool. Beautifully arranged, magnificent pruning, meticulous maintenance. Paradise for someone like me who likes to weed, ill tell you. I saw a guy picking tiny clovers out of a moss ground cover. They are so peaceful and beautifly. A delight to stroll.

I don:t understand most of the history, though. Don:t understand the relationship and changing relationship over the years between buddism, shintoism and political power. Id like to know a bit more about the Meiji Restoration and its relationship to capitalism in Japan. It is kind of interesting that Japan is the only First World country in Asia. Must have something to do with the sucess of capitalism, don:t you think?

Do you know how many tatamis make a tsubo? How many tsubo is your house? Your bedroom?

Maki has done an amazing job planning this trip, down to bus schedules and where we will eat lunch. In Kyoto a few days ago we had lunch in a tofu restaurant. We:re in one of the busy tourist districts, crowded street, hot, and we go inside and all of a sudden it is quite and calm. We:re taken downstairs to a lovely room surrounded by a lush garden are are served a multi course tofu meal. Quiet, calm. Turns out this place is the oldest tofu restaurant in Japan, 370 years old!! Totally cool.

Both of the Ryocans we:ve stayed at have been really nice. The first was very traditional, though, of course, had power, AC, plumbing, etc. But basically one room with a lovely garden outside and tatami floors. That was in Kyoto and we stayed there three nights (I think, kind of lost track of time). In Nara we:re staying at what looks to me like the Four Seasons of Ryocans. Combination of western room and huge tatami area. Incredible view out of the windows right at a huge temple. All five of us have been eating together in the room Leonie, Rachael, and I share for both breakfast and lunch. I:m glad the pictures Ive been taking of all the food are organized by day because even I will not believe the amount and variety of food we are served at each meal. Spectacular presentation and delicious. Even the giant snail was pretty good to eat (though I won:t be rushing out for more).

In Kyoto, Leonie and Rachael went to the Kyoto Museum of Modern Art. Leonie said it was the most exciting museum shes been to in years.

We also stopped along the way of our walking through the heat and humidity at a small mom and pop popsicle stand, a place like those Maki enjoyed as a school girl here. Homemade stuff. Tasty and refreshing.

In two of the religious places we visited, one buddist temple and one shinto shrine, we happened to be there when a religious chanting ceremony occured. Full dress garb, etc. Very exciting.

One night when we were walking in Kyoto we saw three Geishas being ushered into taxi cabs. That caused quite a stir. Full getup, escorted by an old lady.

One of the temples we saw in Nara is the largest wooden structure in the world. Man, it was huge! At another, the Golden Temple, they were preparing for a concert that evening and a man was playing beautiful classical western music as he was being transported around the lake in a small boat.

We;re eating tons of interesting food. Yesterday had some very different sushi, a Nara specialty, pickled fish on rice wrapped in persimmon leaves. All sorts of pickles and veggies. Lots of fish, of course, prepared every which way. Deep fried pork cutlets one night at Nathan:s favorite restaurant. Lots of beer; my favorite is Santory Premium; never seen it in the states before, but now I:ll be looking. No decaf coffee anywhere.

Rachael went into a bathroom in a department store. Most of the western style toilets we:ve seen in stores and restaurants etc have bidet toilet seats. This one, though, was unusual in that it had a button with a musical note on it with the words "Flushing Sound" on it. Bold and adventurous, she pushed it and the toilet - surprise! - started making a flushing sound that would not stop. Not flushing, just the sound. She hitailed it out of there and Maki told us that bathroom noises (from people) are extremely impolite, especially from ladies. So they used to cover up the noises by constantly flushing the toilet. This wasted a lot of water and so they invented this button. Amazing. What will they think of next?

Buses and trains are way cool BusMan heaven.

Last night there was a party going on across the street from the ryocan. Live, loud samba music in Japanese. That was fun.

Enough for now. Gotta go eat another breakfast feast.